Eating out

Harbin has its own, almost unique, restaurant rating system. Lanterns have replaced the internationally recognised 'star' rating system. The number of lanterns displayed outside each restaurant signifies the range of cuisine the chef is skilled at preparing. It is more a symbol of exotic cuisine rather than quality or price.

For the ultimate in exotic cuisine, try (or avoid) The International Hotel. Whilst Europeans may go unnoticed as they blend with the mass of Russian tourists they will probably differ in their craving for the likes of 'grilled bear paws' or 'stewed moose nose with monkey-leg mushrooms'.

More conservative eaters may wish to experience the following: -
Tiantian Sea Port. This restaurant serves highly recommended seafood as its speciality. The food in general is very tasty and worth trying.
Add: 2 Xuanhua Street, Nangang District
Tel: 82618882

Luojiesi Restaurant. Occupying what used to be the Harbin Cinema, this restaurant serves very good food and is extremely popular.
Add: Dongdashi Street, Nangang District
Tel: 53627555

Fucheng Hotpot. Whilst this restaurant offers an extensive menu of high quality cuisine, as its name implies it's speciality is hotpot.
Add: 47 Wenchang Street, Nangang District
Tel: 82661102

Quan Junde. This restaurant specialises in regional dishes from other parts of China - Sichuan, Cantonese etc. If you are in Harbin and want Peking duck then this is the place for you.
Add: 559 Xianfeng Lu
Tel: 82549900

Bars and nightspots

East Moscow Western Food Music Bar. Growing in popularity this venue offers a pleasant combination of Western 'bar snack' type dishes and live entertainment. Also very good for as a social drinking venue.
Add: 10 Hongzhuan Street
Tel: 84642222

The local hotels offer the best for entertainment. During summer, however, the city centre takes on a continental Europe atmosphere. Harbin receives many visitors who enjoy eating and drinking at the many street restaurants. Try the local Harbin beer (excellent); watch the evening promenade and just 'people watch'.

Arts & Culture

Architecture. Harbin has a distinct Russian appearance to it, which differentiates it from any other Chinese city. This can be best seen in the area of town (know as Daoliqu) leading from the centre towards the river. Harbin has one of the largest Russian settlements outside of the USSR and one is likely to see any many Russian faces as Chinese in the busy streets. It is worth a walk around this area on foot not only to see the architecture but also to discover the many speciality shops that exist in this area and to enjoy the atmosphere of the small local markets.

St. Sophie Church. It is well worth a look if old churches are of interest to you. You will probably be surprised to see church buildings of such grandeur in China. It was built under Russian influence. It is very much an active orthodox church with regular services.
Add: 95 Toulong Street, Dauli District

Heilongjiang (or The Martyr's Museum as it commonly called). This is the pick of local museums. There is a nominal entrance fee. On display are many relics from the anti-Japanese campaign. It is a thought-provoking experience to learn this era of Chinese history from a knowledgeable guide.
Add: 64 Hongjun Street
Tel: 53646208

The Window of Europe and Asia. A permanent exhibition mainly aimed at the many Chinese tourists who visit Harbin. There is not much to learn about the European aspects, although it is worth seeing just recognise how Chinese see us. The Asian aspects are of more interest. There is a nominal entrance fee.
Add: 18 Sidao Street, Xue Fu, Nangang District

Ice Lantern Festival. Harbin hosts the most famous in China and it is the premier tourist attraction. Held from early January to early March each year, it offers a display of various ice sculptures on a massive scale. As night falls, it resembles fantasyland. Wrap up well, because temperatures in winter can fall to as low as -40c, and you should expect nothing warmer than -20c.

Music Festival. Held for a 12-day period each July.

"Scenic Spots" Which are the best places to visit, for a tourist?

Sun (or Taiyang) Island. This is a huge tourist recreational zone. It is based to the north of the city and is reached by ferry. It offers China's version of Centreparcs but on a much larger geographic scale. It is worth the effort of getting there just to see the lake, park, gardens and forest. There is much to see to try a tour around by horse drawn carriage.

Stalin Park, fronting the river, resembles a beach resort in summer with sandy banks, bathing and boating. It also comes with its tacky souvenir stalls, ice cream vendors and photo booths.

Zhaolin Park, just across the road from Stalin Park as one heads back towards the town centre and adjacent to Shangzhi Dajie is less commercial and more cultural.

Shopping

This is not the place for animal rights activists. Harbin is very popular for its furs (mink especially), deer antlers and a huge variety of wild animal-based products. Siberian ginseng is in high demand.

Local street markets are full of a blend of Russian artifacts and local souvenirs. Fascinating just to browse around but not too much to interest the serious shopper. Many bargains can be found with domestic branded skiwear.

Other

Trans Siberia Railway. Harbin is a possible starting or finishing point for a journey.

Harbin tends to be a bit of a passing-through sort of place as it is the centre of the province's transport hub. For those who like activity holidays, the area has it all - forests, lakes, mountains and wildlife. Ideal exploring countryside but one needs weeks not days to get into the heartland.

Skiing. Skiing is growing in popularity. The main ski centre is in Shangzhi, some 100 km away. Conditions and facilities are world-class. It can be extremely cold. There is a local saying that Hong Kong and Taiwanese visitors are so blown away by the cold that they never set foot outside the tropics ever again.

Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base. This is the Japanese equivalent to Belsen or Auschwitz but with added macabre twists to the methods of human experimentation and extermination. Whilst of specialist interest to only a few it is worth noting its existence. Some British prisoners were held there and it does represent a sequence of world war two history as yet almost unpublicised. The base is about 10km out of town in Pingfangqu district. For further reading on this, you must read Liam D'Arcy Brown's book, Green Dragon, Sombre Warrior: Travels to China's Extremes